Saturday, January 28, 2012

Coracles & Fishing


Fractured English History Tales- coracles & fishing
                Visited St. Fagan’s today which is a collection of Welsh homes and barns, churches, and shops, and more all gathered together at St. Fagan’s to create an open air museum that is delightful and informative and fun.  We visited in late January which is admittedly not the best time of year as there were very few flowers blooming (just a few crocus), and the trees were bare and some of the exhibits weren’t active yet but it was still delightful.
                One part of the museum is a fishing exhibit.  We entered and walked through reading about the fishing nets and eel pots and such.  Quite a nice exhibit and good explanations.  There were 5 coracles sitting on their ends.  Most of the buildings have a caretaker in them or a docent or someone with some knowledge to answer any questions.  We asked the caretaker about the coracles.  He started telling us about the men who fished them.  First off, they were made for rivers only, not ocean going although there is a variant to them that could be taken into the ocean.  The coracles themselves are quite small, one person only, and very, very tippy.  He said he had tried to get into a coracle two times and both times ended up on his bottom in the water!   They weren’t made to be rowed but they had an oar that was for steering only.  The men would launch them into the river and the current would be what took them downstream.  Families would buy a license for a certain part of the river, maybe a mile or maybe two.  Usually, two men would each have a coracle and would stay even with each other, one steering right and one steering left.  As they floated downstream, a net would be stretched between their coracles and they hoped to catch fish in it as the moved.  They had the ability and skill to stay still in the river as well and could pull in the net and land the fish, usually salmon.  Depending on water level, current strength, time of year, they would often be late afternoon to past twilight fishing and could catch maybe 3 or 4 large salmon on a run.  There would be time for two or three runs depending on all the factors.  They would put the caught fish into a bag and tie it up on a tree so that a fox couldn’t get it, carry their boats back to the starting point and begin again.   To kill the fish, they would whack it over the head with a wooden mallet.  We commented how we had seen the same type of killing on a cow just a few weeks ago in Albania.  That led to more stories.
                These days there are no salmon left in the rivers which is rather ironic because in the 1800’s when this style of fishing was going strong, men would complain about having to eat so much salmon.  The fish licenses would remain in the family and there are still families that have their licenses and councils are trying to buy them back for heaps of money.  The law is on the side of the fishermen so they know they have a bird in hand with their hereditary licenses and are loath to relinquish them.
                Of course there was poaching.  Poachers came out in the middle of the night with lights to entice the fish and would scoop them up with nets of some kind or eel pots.  The eel pots had a one way entrance and were long and skinny to accommodate the eels.  Women would collect cockles, a type of mussel from the tidal flats.  They’d take donkeys out onto the flats and scrape a bit of a hole then use a rack to further rack out the cockles, sieve out the undersized ones, and load up the donkey for the trip home. 
                Our friendly docent had some more tales for us.  He was part of the British Embassy in Ankara, Turkey many years ago and was a caterer.  So he had to go to the slaughter house to pick out the meat for the dinners.  He was commenting on our story of finding it a bit uneasy to see the meat/cow actually being killed and he didn’t much like going to the slaughter house either.
                It was quite nice and always is to talk to the locals and to the people who have experienced different parts of history that we only usually read about in history books.

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